The Japanese izakaya is not simply a bar or a restaurant. It is one of the spaces where Japanese people are most themselves — where the formality of daily life relaxes, where relationships deepen, and where the real conversations happen.
For foreigners, the izakaya is also one of the best places to experience Japanese culture up close. But there are unwritten rules — things that never appear on the menu — that will make your time there significantly richer if you know them.
What Is an Izakaya?
An izakaya is a distinctly Japanese type of establishment that sits between a restaurant and a bar. It is not as food-focused as a restaurant, not as drink-focused as a bar — it occupies a unique cultural space in between.
Prices are generally reasonable. The standard approach is to order multiple small dishes to share across the table. Izakaya are used for everything from casual gatherings with friends to company drinking parties to solo evenings at the counter.
From Entrance to Seated
Walking into an izakaya, you will be greeted with an energetic “irasshaimase!” — welcome.
Stating your party size At the entrance, you will be asked how many people are in your group. Simply state the number and you will be shown to a table.
Types of seating Most izakaya offer a mix of table seats, counter seats, and zashiki — traditional tatami-floored rooms where you sit on cushions on the floor. If you are shown to a zashiki, remember to remove your shoes before stepping up.
Otoshi — the automatic first dish Shortly after sitting down, a small dish will arrive that you did not order. This is the otoshi, sometimes called tsukidashi. It functions as a kind of cover charge — a small mandatory dish that signals your table is open and in use. It cannot be refused, but the cost is modest, typically between 300 and 500 yen. It is one of the aspects of izakaya culture that surprises foreign visitors most consistently.
The Unwritten Rules of Ordering
The first round In an izakaya, the expectation is that everyone orders a drink to start. The phrase “toriaezu biiru” — “beer for now, to start” — has become a cultural shorthand for this moment. Once everyone’s drinks arrive, the evening begins with a toast.
Waiting for the kanpai When drinks arrive, do not start drinking immediately. Wait until everyone has their glass and the call of “kanpai!” — cheers — has been made. Starting before the toast is a noticeable breach of etiquette.
Pouring for others In an izakaya, you do not pour your own drink. The expectation is that you watch the glasses of those around you and refill them when they are running low. Pouring your own beer without attending to others first can come across as self-centered.
Sharing dishes Food at an izakaya is ordered for the table and placed in the center for everyone to share. Each person takes from the shared dishes onto their own small plate.
The Unwritten Rules of Paying
Warikan — splitting the bill The standard approach at Japanese drinking parties is warikan — dividing the total equally among the group, regardless of exactly what each person ordered. Calculating individual totals is less common and can feel unnecessarily complicated in this context.
The role of the kanji Most drinking gatherings have a kanji — an organizer who handles the reservation, manages the seating, and collects money at the end. The kanji divides the total by the number of people and collects from each person individually.
Asking for the bill In Japan, the bill will not be brought to your table while you are still eating or drinking. When you are ready to leave, either approach the register or call out “okaikei onegaishimasu” — “the bill, please.”
Leaving the Izakaya
As you exit, staff will call out “arigatou gozaimashita!” — thank you very much. A light nod or bow as you leave is the natural response.
Becoming a regular at a neighborhood izakaya is one of the most rewarding social experiences Japan offers. Staff remember their regulars, conversations carry over from one visit to the next, and the welcome becomes warmer with each visit.
Drinking Alone
Solo drinking — hitori nomi — is entirely normal in Japan. Counter seats are designed for exactly this purpose. At the counter, natural conversations with staff or neighboring customers often develop on their own. There is no social awkwardness attached to arriving alone.
What the Izakaya Reveals About Japan
The izakaya is one of the places in Japan where the gap between honne and tatemae — true feelings and public face — narrows most visibly. Alcohol loosens the formality that governs much of Japanese social life. The concept of “nominication” — a blend of the Japanese word for drinking and the English word communication — captures the idea that the izakaya is not just a place to drink. It is a place to connect.
Understanding the culture of the izakaya and participating in it on its own terms is one of the fastest ways to close the distance between yourself and the Japanese people around you.